Poured by a crew that works this climate every year — on a compacted base, with an air-entrained mix, cured against high-desert wind, so it is still flat in twenty years.
Concrete in northern Nevada almost never fails because of the concrete. It fails because of decisions made before the truck arrived. Because somebody poured four inches onto the expansive clay that was already there instead of excavating and compacting a real granular base. Because the mix went in without proper air entrainment, so the first hard freeze had nowhere to push. Because the crew added water at the truck to keep it workable and quietly cut the strength. Because a slab got placed at two in the afternoon in a twenty-mile-an-hour wind at twelve percent humidity, and the surface cracked before anybody had finished cleaning up. Because the control joints were cut too shallow, too late, or too far apart. Because the slope ran back toward the garage instead of out toward the street. Every one of those is invisible on the day the job is finished, and every one of them is obvious by the fourth spring.
That second-to-last one is the local specialty, and it is the reason a crew from a humid climate would struggle here. At four and a half thousand feet with single-digit humidity and a reliable afternoon wind, water leaves the surface of fresh concrete faster than the slab can bleed it back. The surface shrinks while the body underneath does not, and you get plastic shrinkage cracking — short random cracks, a weak crazed surface, and a slab that will not wear well, all decided in the first three hours. It is entirely preventable with early starts, wind screens, evaporation retarder, and curing that begins immediately. It is also routinely skipped, because none of it shows up in a photograph on the day.
We pour concrete across Reno, Sparks and northern Nevada for homeowners and small businesses, and the entire approach is about getting those decisions right the first time. That means digging out to the depth the slab actually needs, hauling in and compacting granular base instead of pouring on native clay, specifying an air-entrained mix everywhere because this is a freeze-thaw climate and there is no version of that argument worth having, using a sulfate-resisting cement where the ground calls for it, setting reinforcement on chairs so the steel ends up in the middle of the slab instead of lying in the dirt, cutting joints at the right depth within the right window, and curing the concrete rather than walking away the moment it is troweled. None of that is clever. It is just the work, in order, with nothing skipped because nobody will ever see it.
You deal directly with the people who pour the concrete. There is no sales department, no appointment setter, no financing pitch, and nobody working from a script. You call, we come look at the job, we tell you what it needs and what it costs, and if the honest answer is that your driveway has another six good years in it, that is what you will hear.
The bulk of concrete work in this region is flatwork — the surfaces you park on, walk on, and use every day:
Residential and light commercial. Every job starts with a free on-site look and a written price, and every price is the price.
New driveways, full replacements, and widenings poured on a compacted base so they are not in pieces after eight winters.
See details →Backyard patios, patio extensions, service walks, and fire pit pads, sloped so they drain instead of holding ice.
See details →Driveway approaches, curb cuts, and public sidewalk panels — permitted, poured to city spec, and inspected.
See details →Front steps and porch slabs rebuilt on footings below frost depth, with consistent rise and run and real slip resistance.
See details →Reinforced interior slabs over a vapor barrier, sized for what is actually going to sit and roll on them.
See details →Camper and boat parking, shed and outbuilding slabs, hot tub, generator and AC pads, tied cleanly into what is already there.
See details →Stamped patterns, integral color, banded borders and exposed aggregate — with an honest account of the upkeep.
See details →Crack repair, panel replacement, slab lifting, resurfacing, and removal — or a straight answer that it is time to replace.
See details →Concrete is not an emergency trade, but you should still get a straight answer about timing instead of a vague promise and then silence. Here is the real schedule.
Call and you get someone who pours concrete, not a call center. If we are in the middle of a pour we call you back the same day.
We come measure, check your grade and drainage, look at what is already there, and hand you a written price. Free, with nothing attached to it.
Pads, single panels, small patios, step repairs and pours under roughly 200 square feet usually get scheduled inside two weeks.
Driveways, large patios and shop floors depend on the season. May through September is the rush; April and late fall are usually quicker.
A few honest caveats, because they are the ones that actually move dates. Weather is the big one, and here it moves dates in two directions. Sustained wind is the reason we reschedule most often — you cannot finish a quality surface in a hard afternoon blow at ten percent humidity, and Washoe Valley, Cold Springs and the open ground out east get exactly that through the spring. Rain and summer thunderstorms push jobs too, sometimes by several days if the ground needs to dry before we can prep a base. Winter is the other. We pour into early December with accelerator, heated water and blankets, but from roughly late December through March the honest answer for most jobs is that spring will get you a better slab, and we would rather say that than take a deposit. Right-of-way permits for approach and sidewalk work add lead time on the city's schedule, generally a week or two. And if your subdivision has an architectural committee, that clock belongs entirely to them, so submit early.
If your situation is genuinely time-sensitive — a stoop that has separated and is routing water into a foundation wall, a trip hazard where somebody has already fallen, a business that needs an approach usable before Monday — say so when you call. We will tell you honestly whether we can move it up rather than promising a date we cannot hold.
These are ranges, not quotes. Every property is different, and anybody who gives you a firm price over the phone without seeing the site is guessing. Use these to sanity-check the bids you get — ours included.
| Job | Typical range | What moves the number |
|---|---|---|
| Standard gray flatwork | $8 – $14 per sq ft | Thickness, reinforcement, base depth, access |
| Stamped / decorative | $14 – $24 per sq ft | Pattern, colors, borders, sealing |
| Two-car driveway (450–700 sq ft) | $5,000 – $10,000 | Tear-out of the old slab, thickness, dirt work |
| Driveway widening strip | $1,600 – $4,000 | Length, width, doweling into the existing slab |
| Driveway approach at the street | $1,200 – $3,000 | Width, permit, curb work, traffic control |
| Patio, 12×16 ft | $1,900 – $3,400 | Finish type, grading, gate access |
| Public sidewalk replacement | $9 – $16 per sq ft | Panel count, root work, city spec, cross-slope |
| Front steps / stoop rebuild | $1,800 – $5,000 | Number of risers, footing depth, railing tie-in |
| Garage floor replacement | $8 – $15 per sq ft | Thickness, rebar, vapor barrier, demo access |
| Shop / outbuilding floor | $9 – $16 per sq ft | Thickness, rebar grid, dirt work, lift footings |
| RV or boat pad | $3,000 – $7,500 | Size, 5–6 in thickness, excavation, tie-in |
| Shed / AC / hot tub pad | $500 – $1,800 | Size, thickness, truck reach |
| Crack repair (rout & seal) | $300 – $1,000 | Linear footage and crack width |
| Single panel replacement | $450 – $1,400 | Panel size, saw cutting, root work |
| Slab lifting / leveling | $600 – $2,500 | Area, lift height, void volume under the slab |
| Concrete removal & haul-off | $2 – $5 per sq ft | Thickness, reinforcement, dump fees, access |
Four things push a Reno job toward the top of its range more than anything else. Demolition of an existing slab — especially a thick or heavily reinforced one — costs real money to break out, load, and haul. Dirt work matters more here than people expect, because getting off clay and onto a compacted granular base means excavating deeper and hauling material both directions. Access is expensive: if the truck cannot chute directly to the pour we are running a pump or wheeling buggies through a 36-inch gate, and that is labor. And thickness and steel, which is the one part of the bid where paying more is almost always correct.
What should make you suspicious of a bid: a price meaningfully below these ranges nearly always means a thinner slab, no granular base, no reinforcement, or all three. Ready-mix has a floor cost per yard that nobody escapes, and neither does a crew that is being paid properly. If one bidder is $3,500 under everyone else on the same driveway, the savings are coming out of the part you cannot see once it is finished.
Nobody enjoys not knowing how a home project is going to go. Here is the whole sequence, start to finish, so there are no surprises.
It takes twenty to thirty minutes. We measure the area, watch how water moves across your lot, check the thickness and condition of any existing concrete, look at what the soil is doing, and work out how a truck is going to reach the pour. We will ask what is going to sit on the slab, because a driveway that holds a sedan and one that holds a loaded trailer are not the same slab and should not be priced as though they are.
Then you get a written scope and price covering demolition and haul-off, excavation, base material and compaction, forming, reinforcement, the mix and the thickness, finish type, joint layout, and cleanup. Where a decision changes the price — five inches instead of four, rebar instead of mesh, a color instead of gray — you see both numbers so you can actually choose rather than being sold.
We tell you where the truck needs to sit, roughly how long the driveway will be out of service, and whether you need to move vehicles, trash carts, or anything on the patio. If the job needs a right-of-way permit or architectural approval, that gets sorted before we schedule, not after. We also flag anything about drainage — a downspout or a sump discharge aimed at the new slab — while it is still cheap to fix.
The first day is usually breaking out the old slab, hauling it off, excavating to grade, and bringing in and compacting granular base. It is the least impressive day to look at and the one that decides everything. Then we form, set grades and slope, and place reinforcement on chairs so the steel sits in the middle of the slab instead of on the ground where it does nothing.
It is loud for a few hours. We place, screed, bull float, edge — and then we wait, because the waiting is the job. Finishing before the bleed water has come up and left is the single most common cause of a surface that flakes apart three winters later. When the timing is right we finish, broom the texture across the direction of travel for grip, and cut control joints to a quarter of the slab depth.
We apply cure, haul our debris out, and leave the site clean. You walk on it the next day, park a car at about a week, and put anything heavy on it at 28 days. You get simple written instructions for the first year, and the most important line in them is this: no deicing salt on new concrete for the entire first winter. Not rock salt, not ice melt, not the bag from the hardware store. Sand it instead.
There are four other ways to get concrete poured in Reno, and each of them has a specific failure mode worth knowing about.
Fill out one form and five companies call you for a week. You still have not spoken to anyone who will hold a trowel. Here, the number reaches the people doing the work.
The lowball is almost always a thinner slab on no base with no steel. It looks identical the day it is finished. The difference arrives in the fourth spring.
Concrete is a subcontract for them — marked up, scheduled around bigger jobs, and managed by someone who has never finished a slab. You pay extra for a middle layer.
Every April brings crews working out of a truck with leftover material and a cash price. Some are fine. Many are gone by August, and so is any recourse you had.
Compacted granular base, correct thickness, steel on chairs, air-entrained mix every time, joints cut on schedule and to depth. That is where a slab is won.
If your driveway has ten more good years, or a $700 repair solves what somebody else quoted as an $8,000 replacement, we will say so and you can call us in ten years.
Nevada is stricter about this than most states, and that works in your favor. Contractors here are licensed by the Nevada State Contractors Board, concrete contracting has its own licence classification, and licensed contractors must be bonded and must qualify for a monetary limit on the size of work they can take on. That means there is a real public record behind every legitimate bid you receive. We hold a current licence in the appropriate classification, carry general liability insurance, and cover our crew with workers' compensation. The licence number and a current certificate of insurance go out in writing with your estimate.
Because that record exists, use it. The Board publishes a licence lookup where you can confirm that a contractor's licence is active, see the classification and monetary limit, check the bond, and see any disciplinary history. It takes about a minute and it is the single most useful minute you will spend on a concrete project. Ask every bidder for their licence number and a certificate of insurance naming their carrier, then verify both. If a contractor gets vague when you ask, you have your answer. And understand the specific risk with insurance: if somebody is injured on your property working for an uninsured contractor, that claim has a way of finding your homeowner's policy.
Two things worth knowing beyond the licence. Unlicensed contracting is taken seriously in Nevada — it is enforced against, and hiring outside the licensed system also puts you outside the protections the licensing and bonding system exists to provide, including the Board's complaint process and its residential recovery fund. Second, Nevada has a mechanic's lien statute, and an unpaid supplier or subcontractor can file against your property even when you have paid your contractor in full. That is not a reason for alarm; it is a reason to work with somebody who gives you a written contract, invoices in a way you can follow, and will provide lien releases on request. Ask for them. Any legitimate contractor expects the question.
If your project is over the state line in Truckee, the requirement is different again: California licenses contractors through its own board, and Nevada licensure does not cover work there. Ask to see a current California licence for a Truckee job, and treat anyone who waves that away as having told you something important.
Standard gray flatwork in the Reno-Sparks area generally runs $8 to $14 per square foot installed, and stamped or decorative finishes run $14 to $24 per square foot. A two-car driveway most often lands between $5,000 and $10,000, and a mid-sized patio between $1,900 and $4,000. The number moves with square footage, slab thickness, how much old concrete has to come out, how much dirt work is needed, and whether a truck can reach the pour. You get a written price before anything starts.
A small pad is — an air conditioner base, a single step, a shed pad under roughly 60 square feet is genuinely doable with bagged mix and a free Saturday. Anything larger is not, and the reason is the clock. Once concrete comes off the truck you have a fixed window to place, screed, float, and finish it, and finishing at the wrong moment is what causes surface failure two winters later. A driveway that goes wrong is not a repair, it is a demolition bill. Do the shed pad yourself and hire the driveway out.
Usually not. Hairline shrinkage cracks are normal and cosmetic — concrete cracks, which is why we cut control joints to decide where. What is worth acting on quickly is a crack with a height difference across it, which means something moved and will keep moving; concrete settling toward the house, which routes water at your foundation; and any trip hazard on a walk you are responsible for. Those three get worse and more expensive with time. A flat hairline crack can wait until it is convenient.
For flatwork entirely on your own property — patios, pads, garage floors, widening inside your lot lines — a building permit generally is not required. Work in the public right-of-way is different: a driveway approach, a public sidewalk panel, or a curb cut is permitted and inspected by the city, and it has to meet their spec for thickness, slope and cross-slope. Structural footings for an addition, deck, or detached garage are permitted separately. We tell you which category your job is in during the estimate.
Some of it. Right-of-way work has to meet city standards, including ADA cross-slope limits on public sidewalks. Anything structural — step footings, porch footings, post footings — has to bear below the frost line, and that depth is set by the jurisdiction that will inspect the work rather than by a regional rule of thumb. On the valley floor in Reno and Sparks it is relatively shallow; up at Incline Village, and over the pass in Truckee, it is far deeper, because frost penetrates much further at elevation. We confirm the number with the right building department instead of guessing. Steps also have to hold consistent rise and run to be safe and legal. A backyard patio is not code-governed the same way, but we pour it to the same standards anyway, because the minimums exist for reasons that show up in year ten.
Most residential driveways and patios take two to four days of on-site work from demolition to final finish, though the days are not always consecutive — demo and base prep often happen a day or two before the pour. You can walk on new concrete in 24 to 48 hours, park a passenger vehicle on it at about seven days, and put a loaded truck, trailer or RV on it at 28 days. Concrete keeps gaining strength for roughly a month.
Yes. Nevada licenses contractors through the Nevada State Contractors Board, and concrete work falls under its own classification, so unlike some states there is a specific licence that covers this trade and a public record you can check. We hold a current licence, carry general liability insurance, and cover the crew with workers' compensation. The licence number and a current certificate of insurance go out in writing with your estimate. Verify them — the Board publishes a licence lookup, it takes a minute, and it tells you whether a bidder is licensed, bonded, and in good standing. Anyone who gets evasive when you ask has answered the question.
On the valley floor in Reno, Sparks and Carson City, comfortably from about April through November, and we pour into early December most years with accelerator, heated water and insulated blankets. The higher you go the shorter it gets: Truckee and Incline Village are realistically a June-to-September proposition with weather-dependent edges. Two things set the limits. Ground has to be thawed to prep and compact a base properly, and fresh concrete cannot be allowed to freeze in its first days or it is permanently weakened at the surface. There is also a summer constraint people do not expect — at ten percent humidity with an afternoon wind, a July pour needs an early start and real evaporation control, or the surface cracks in its first three hours. If you call in January we will book you for spring and tell you plainly that is what we are doing.
We work throughout the Truckee Meadows and the communities around it — from the century-old streets of the Old Southwest and Wells Avenue, out through Caughlin Ranch and Somersett to Verdi at the mouth of the Truckee canyon, south through Damonte Ranch and the South Meadows and over the hill into Washoe Valley, east across Sparks into the Spanish Springs clay, north through Sun Valley and Lemmon Valley to Cold Springs, down to Carson City and the Carson Valley towns of Minden and Gardnerville, east along Highway 50 to Dayton and out to Fernley and Fallon, up to Incline Village on the Nevada shore of Lake Tahoe, and over the pass into Truckee. Pick your town for local detail on soil, permits, and the concrete problems particular to it.
Driveway, patio, steps, garage floor, or a crack you are not sure about — call and get a straight answer on what it needs, what it costs, and when we can be there.
📞 Call (775) 264-5350